Trains
The SNCF has pioneered one of the most efficient, comfortable and user-friendly railway systems in the world. Its staff are, with a few exceptions, courteous and helpful, and its trains - for the most part, fast, clean and frequent - continue, in spite of the closure of some rural lines, to serve a vast part of the country. For national train information , you can either phone (tel 08.36.35.35.35; 2.23F/¬0.34 per minute) or check on the Internet at www.sncf.fr .

Pride and joy of the system are the high-speed TGVs ( trains à grande vitesse ), capable of 300kph, and their offspring Eurostar . The continually expanding system has its main hub at Paris, from where a main line heads northeast to Lille, and two other trunk routes head south: one reaching down the east side of the country to Marseille and the Mediterranean, the other down the west to Bordeaux and the Spanish frontier. Spur lines service Brittany and Normandy, the Alps, Pyrenees and Jura. Although the whole service is much faster than ordinary trains, the special high-speed TGV track, which alone permits top speeds, at the moment stretches from Lille (with a branch to the Channel Tunnel at Calais) to Paris, then southeast to Valence and southwest to Tours and Le Mans. The only difference between TGV and other train fares is that you pay a compulsory reservation charge (from 20F/¬3), plus a supplement on certain peak-hour trains. It is easiest to use the counter service for buying tickets, though if there are language problems or long queues the touch-screen computerized system available in most stations can be read in English and is a good way to check various fares and times - if need be, you can always press the red annulment button to cancel the transaction before committing yourself.

All tickets - but not passes - must be validated in the orange machines at station platform entrances, and it is an offence not to follow the instruction Compostez votre billet ("Validate your ticket"). Train journeys may be broken any time, anywhere, for as long as the ticket is valid (usually two months), but after a break of 24 hours you must validate your ticket again when you resume your journey. On night trains an extra 100F/¬15.25 or so will buy you a couchette - well worth it if you're making a long haul and don't want to waste a day recovering from a sleepless night.

After a spate of terrorist bombings in the late 1990s most train stations closed their luggage lockers ( consignes automatiques ); these days a few have reopened, and larger stations have a manned luggage check-in, usually with limited hours. Many stations also rent out bicycles , sometimes of rather doubtful reliability.

Regional rail maps and complete timetables are on sale at tobacconist shops ( tabacs ). Leaflet timetables for particular lines are available free at stations. Autocar or a bullet symbol at the top of a column means it's an SNCF bus service, on which rail tickets and passes are valid.

Aside from the regular lines there are a number of special tourist-oriented raillines, usually not part of the SNCF system or covered by normal rail passes, though some offer a discount to rail pass holders. Two of the most popular are the spectaular Train Jaune which winds its way up through the Pyrenees, and the ATM train, which heads up into the hinterland of Narbonne.

Buses
The most convenient bus services are those run as an extension of rail links by SNCF, which always run to and from the SNCF station and will access areas not accessible by rail. In addition to SNCF buses, private buses can be useful for local and some cross-country journeys. The most frustrating thing about them is that they rarely serve the regions outside the SNCF network - which is precisely where you need them. Where they do exist in rural areas, the timetable is constructed to suit working, market and school hours - all often dauntingly early. All buses are, generally speaking, cheaper and slower than trains.

Larger towns usually have a gare routière (bus station), often next to the gare SNCF . However, the private bus companies don't always work together and you'll frequently find them leaving from an array of different points (the local tourist office will usually help locate them).

Flying
Unless time is tight and money is no object, you will probably not want to move around within France by air (a possible exception being to fly to Corsica), though if you've come from North America, Australia or New Zealand you may be able to get a good deal on add-on flights . Air France operates the most routes within the country, although smaller outfits like Air Liberté and Air Littoral are also options. You may also be able to pick up an internal flight on some of the foreign airlines (such as Lufthansa) whose routes include intermediate stops within the country.

Ferries
The majority of France's coastal islands, which are concentrated around Brittany and the Côte d'Azur, can only be reached by ferry . Small local companies run routes whose timetables vary according to season, some routes ceasing to operate in winter months, while in high season booking ahead is recommended on all but the most frequent runs. SNCM and Corsica Ferries offer services to Corsica . For all ferries, prices and schedules vary by season, so it's best to contact the carrier before planning your trip.

Driving
Driving in France can be a real pleasure. The network of autoroutes is magnificent and often provides huge, sweeping views of countryside. Congestion, because of the size and shape of the country, is much less than in Britain. This is equally true of the older main roads of routes nationales (marked N6 or RN117, for example, on signs and maps) and the smaller routes départementales (marked with a D). Do not shun these latter: you can often travel for kilometres across country, seeing few other cars, on a road as broad and well maintained as a major road in Britain.

Of course, there are times when it is wiser not to drive: most obviously in big urban agglomerations, around major seaside resorts in high season and at peak holiday migrations like the beginning and end of the month-long August holiday and the notoriously congested weekends nearest July 14 and August 15. Cost of fuel can also be a discouraging factor .

In addition, there is a charge for the use of the autoroutes themselves (payable at the frequent toll gates or péages ). To give you an idea of the costs involved, the toll from Calais to Reims is 103F/¬15.70 and from Calais to Paris 108F/¬16.46, while Paris direct to Marseille or Nice is 277F/¬42.23 and 360F/¬54.88 respectively. A journey from Calais to Montpellier, taking in three different toll gates, would cost you around 379F/¬57.80.

Although autoroutes are expensive, they are the only realistic way of covering large distances in a single day. If you have more time and don't want to travel on autoroutes , the best way to avoid them is to use the Bison Futé map, free from petrol stations, which gives all manner of alternative routes (often signed as itinéraire bis ) across the country.

The costs of driving can, however, be amortized if your car carries a full complement of passengers, and the extra mobility and carrying capacity make it much easier to camp. But, practical considerations aside, the great gain is the freedom to explore places that would otherwise remain inaccessible, in particular the sparsely populated upland areas like the Massif Central and the mountain ranges of the Alps and Pyrenees. Here, too, many roads have been constructed with the motorist in mind, to provide spectacular views of otherwise unviewable places - roads like the Corniche des Cévennes, the Route Napoléon in the western Alps and the high Alpine and Pyrenean passes - although you need to remember that the highest roads are snowbound through winter and spring (you get plenty of notice from information boards on the approach roads).

All the major car manufacturers have garages and service stations in France, which can help if you run into mechanical difficulties . You can find them in the Yellow Pages of the phone book under "Garages d'automobiles". For breakdowns, look under "Dépannages". If you have an accident or break-in, you should make a report to the local police (and keep a copy) in order to make an insurance claim. Many car insurance policies cover taking your car to Europe; check with your insurer while planning your trip. However, you're advised to take out extra cover for motoring assistance in case your car breaks down, costing around £45 for seven days. Look into the RAC's European Motoring Assistance (tel 0800/550055, www.rac.co.uk ), the AA's Five-Star Europe cover (tel 0800/444500, www.theaa.co.uk ), or Europ Assistance (tel 0645/947000). In the US, contact the American Automobile Association (tel 1-800/222-4357, www.aaa.com ); in Canada, the Canadian Automobile Association (tel 1-800/267-8713, www.caa.ca ); in Australia, the Australian Automobile Association (tel 02/6247 7311, www.aaa.asn.au ); and in New Zealand, the New Zealand Automobile Association (tel 09/377 4660, www.nzaa.co.nz ).

Hitching
If you're intent on hitching , you'll have to rely almost exclusively on car drivers, as lorries very rarely give lifts. Even so, it won't be easy. Looking as clean, ordinary and respectable as possible makes a very big difference, as conversations with French drivers soon make clear. Experience also suggests that hitching the less-frequented D roads is much quicker. In mountain areas a rucksack and hiking gear will help procure a lift from fellow aficionados.

Autoroutes are a special case. Hitching on the autoroute itself is strictly illegal, but you can make excellent time going from one service station to another, and if you get stuck, at least there's food, drink, shelter and washing facilities at most service stations. It helps to have the Guide des Autoroutes , published by Michelin, which shows all the rest stops, service stations, tollbooths ( péages ), exits, etc. Remember to get out at the service station before your driver leaves the autoroute . The tollbooths are a second best (and legal) option; ordinary approach roads can be disastrous.

For major long-distance rides, and for a greater sense of safety, you might consider using the national hitching organization , Allostop Provoya, 8 rue Rochambeau (on square Montholon), 17009 Paris (Mon-Fri 9am-7.30pm, Sat 9am-1pm & 2-6pm; tel 01.53.20.42.42, fax 01.53.20.42.44, pcb.ecritel.fr/allostop/welcome ; Mº Cadet/Poissonnière). The cost comprises a registration fee (30F/¬4.58 for a journey less than 200km, 50F/¬7.63 if less than 400km, 60F/¬9.15 if less than 500km and a maximum of 70F/¬10.68 if more than 500km, or you can buy a 180F/¬27.45 membership card which is good for eight trips over two years), plus a charge of 22 centimes for every kilometre of the journey.

Bicycles
Bicycles ( vélos ) have high status in France. All the car ferries carry them for nothing; the SNCF makes minimal charges; and the French (Parisians excepted) respect cyclists - both as traffic and, when you stop off at a restaurant or hotel, as customers. In addition many municipalities and départements are actively promoting cycling, not only with city paths, but comprehensive networks linking rural areas (frequently utilizing disused roadways and rail right-of-ways). These days more and more cyclists are using mountain bikes , which the French call VTTs ( vélos tout terrain ), even for touring holidays, although it's much less effort, and much quicker, to cycle long distances and carry luggage on a traditionally styled touring or racing bike.

Restaurants and hotels along the way are nearly always obliging about looking after your bike, even to the point of allowing it into your room. Most large towns have well-stocked retail and repair shops , where parts are normally cheaper than in Britain or the US. However, if you're using a foreign-made bike with non-standard metric wheels, it's a good idea to carry spare tyres. Inner tubes are not a problem, as they adapt to either size, though make sure you get the right valves.

The train network runs various schemes for cyclists, all of them covered by the free leaflet Guide du Train et du Vélo , available from most stations. Trains marked with a bicycle in the timetable allow you to take a bike as free accompanied luggage. Otherwise, you have to send your bike parcelled up as registered luggage for a fee of 150F/¬22.88. Although it may well arrive in less time, the SNCF won't guarantee delivery in under five days; and you do hear stories of bicycles disappearing altogether.

You can normally load your bike straight onto the train at the ferry port - as on the boat train at Dieppe - but remember that you must first go to the ticket office of the station to register it. Don't just try to climb on the train with it, as both you and your bike will end up left behind. Ferries either take bikes free or charge a maximum of £5 one way. British Airways and Air France both take bikes free - you may have to box them though, and you should contact the airlines first. Eurostar allow you to take your bicycle as part of your baggage allowance provided it is dismantled and stored in a special bike bag, and the dimensions don't exceed 120cm by 90cm. Otherwise it needs to be sent on unaccompanied, with a guaranteed arrival of 24 hours (you can register it up to ten days in advance; book through Esprit Europe tel 0800/186186); the fee is £20 one way.

Bikes - usually mountain bikes - are often available to rent from campsites, hostels and gîtes d'étapes , as well as from specialist cycle shops and some tourist offices for around 80F/¬12.20 per day; these machines are likely to be more reliable, though more expensive, than those of the SNCF. The bikes are often not insured, however, and you will be presented with the bill for its replacement if it's stolen or damaged. Check whether your travel insurance policy covers you for this if you intend to rent a bike.

As for maps , a minimum requirement is the IGN 1:100,000 series - the smallest scale that carries contours. In the UK, the Cyclists' Touring Club, Cotterell House, 68 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HS (tel 01483/417 217, fax 01483/426 994, cycling@ctc.org.uk ), will suggest routes and supply advice for members (£25 p.a. or £12.50 for unemployed). They run a particularly good insurance scheme.

Boating
With some 7500km of navigable rivers and canals, boating can be one of the best and most relaxed ways of exploring France. Except on parts of the Moselle, there is no charge for use of the waterways, and you can travel without a permit for up to six months in a year. For information on maximum dimensions, documentation, regulations and so forth, ask at a French Government Tourist Office for their booklet Boating on the Waterways , or contact Voies Navigables de France, 175 rue Ludovic Boutleux, 62408 Bethune (tel 03.21.63.24.24, fax 03.21.63.24.42, www.vnf.fr ), which has information on boating throughout France, and lists of firms that rent out boats. British companies organizing boating holidays include Hoseasons (tel 01502/500 555), Crown Blue Line (tel 01603/630513, boathols@crown-blueline.com ) and Abercrombie & Kent (tel 0171/730 9600). The most attractive boats, based on a scaled-down version of real commercial barges, are run by French Country Cruises (tel 01572/821 330, fax 821 072), although Locaboat (tel 03.86.91.72.72, www.locaboat.com ) also has good modern vessels (expect to pay between 5250F/¬800 and 10,000F/¬1500 per week, depending on season, for a 3-5 person boat) . For a full list of rental firms operating in France write to the Syndicat National des Loueurs de Bateaux de Plaisance, Port de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris (tel 01.44.37.04.00, fax 01.45.77.21.88).

The principal areas for boating are Brittany, Burgundy, Picardy-Flanders, Alsace and Champagne. Brittany's canals join up with the Loire, but this is only navigable as far as Angers, with no links eastwards. Other waterways permit numerous permutations, including joining up via the Rhône and Saône with the Canal du Midi in Languedoc and then northwestwards to Bordeaux and the Atlantic. The eighteenth-century Canal de Bourgogne and 300-year-old Canal du Midi are fascinating examples of early canal engineering. The latter completely transformed the fortunes of coastal Languedoc, and in particular Sète, whose attractive harbour dates from that period. Together with its continuation, the Canal du Sète à Rhône, it passes within easy reach of several interesting areas.

The through-journey from the Channel to the Mediterranean requires some planning. The Canal de Bourgogne has an inordinate number of locks, while other waterways demand considerable skill and experience - the Rhône and Saône rivers, for example, have tricky currents. The most direct route is from Le Havre to just beyond Paris, then south either on Canal du Loing et de Briare or Canal du Nivernais to the Canal Latéral de la Loire, which you follow as far as Digoin in southern Burgundy, where it crosses the River Loire and meets the Canal du Centre. You follow the latter as far as Châlon, where you continue south on the Saône and Rhône until you reach the Mediterranean at Port St-Louis in the Camargue.